Milan Fashion Week · SS 2027
Milan Fashion Week SS 2027: sixty skirts and a last dance at Diesel
Prada put the skirt under the microscope, Glenn Martens said goodbye with 200 performers, and pink took over the city. The week in Milan.
Milan opened on the morning of 22 September with Prada, and over the week that followed the city ran more than 200 events. By the end it felt like a week about endings and inheritances: a farewell at Diesel, a second season for Silvana Armani, a last collection at Emporio Armani before Dario Vitale takes over, and Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons put one garment under the microscope. More than sixty skirts came down the runway at the Fondazione Prada, under fluorescent light, in every material and cut, with micro bras on top, nylon bags hanging from the body and laser-cut black kitten heels pinned with floral brooches. A remark about skirts from the foreign minister, Antonio Tajani, made sure the collection was argued about well beyond fashion. Sadie Sink and Emilia Clarke were on the front row.
Diesel
Glenn Martens’s last show for Diesel didn’t stay on the runway. He seated around 200 performers from La Horde, the Marseille dance company, among an audience of 1,500, and let the show happen all around the room.
The houses
- Fendi. Maria Grazia Chiuri went back to the 1980s and Raffaella Carrà, inside a mirror installation that nodded to Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di Specchi, with embroidered Roman columns on coats and Baguettes carried with stilettos and socks.
- Giorgio Armani. Silvana Armani’s second collection, “Evolution,” kept to black, white and cream: glittering eveningwear, tailoring with bombers, and 80s double-breasted suits worn with nothing underneath. Claire Danes and Elizabeth Debicki watched.
- Gucci. Demna’s “The Store Show” built a virtual boutique for 800 guests.
- Dolce & Gabbana. “Stravaganza Siciliana” drew on the family archive’s lace and lingerie: tweed jackets over leopard skirts, underwear worn as outerwear, bedazzled denim. Jennifer Lopez came in a tuxedo and velvet beret.
- Bottega Veneta. A collection about material and what can be done to it, with familiar shapes made abstract.
- Ferragamo. Maximilian Davis’s best collection for the house, in ochre and earth with flashes of white, green, blue and red.
- Jil Sander. Simone Bellotti moved a button, shifted a seam, distorted a lapel, and the whole silhouette changed with it.
- Max Mara. Ian Griffiths looked to the explorer Freya Stark for a utilitarian wardrobe.
- Tod’s. Perforated pieces built around the Gommino loafer, at the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea.
- Loro Piana. Quiet luxury in the Braidense Library.
Pink, everywhere
If Milan agreed on one thing, it was soft pink: at Prada, Blumarine, Moschino and Vivetta. Bermuda shorts came back at Diesel, Armani and MSGM, and split-front blouses that showed the navel turned up at Gucci, The Attico and Ferragamo.
Ones to watch
Institution by Galib Gassanoff was the most architectural work in the city, built from the traditional Azerbaijani kelaghayi into its stitching and construction. Kering’s talent showcase introduced Nathalie Chebou-Moth, Srushti Patil and Ayham Hassan.
The faces
Saar Mansvelt Beck, the most booked model of the season with 35 shows across four cities by The Impression’s count, walked for Dolce & Gabbana.
Sources
Official calendar from Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (cameramoda.it). Show details from Elite Traveler (Godfrey Deeny), W Magazine, NSS Magazine, Hunger and Hello!; model counts from The Impression. Pictures are the posts of the accounts named under each one, shown through Instagram.