Paris Fashion Week · SS 2027
Paris Fashion Week SS 2027: gold, goodbyes and a swan on the arm
Nine days, sixty-eight shows and a season that felt like a changing of the guard. The collections, the casting and the front row that defined Paris.
Paris closes the season, and this one closed it loudly. From 28 September to 6 October the official calendar held 68 runway shows and 34 presentations, and almost every major house had something to prove: a first anniversary, a debut, a farewell, or a homecoming.
Valentino came back to the Paris schedule after showing its previous collection in Rome. Alaïa skipped the runway altogether, presenting work by its in-house studio at an event while the house searches for its next creative director. The absence said as much as any show.
The opener
Julie Kegels opened the calendar, fresh from winning the 2026 LVMH Prize. Her collection, “Apple of the Day,” was about gravity: jeans with the fly sagging open, floral embroidery that slid down the body as if something were pulling it, and sheer organza scattered with glitter, confetti and sequins. It was a confident first word for the week.
Dior
Jonathan Anderson’s Dior did the most with the smallest objects. The invitation came with a pair of walnuts. On the runway, a white acrylic swan minaudière and a walnut clutch, hemlines left uneven, earrings mismatched, raw edges, and traditional tailoring redone in sheer organza. The Bar jacket went out with metallic disco trousers, the clearest version of the season’s party trousers anywhere in Paris.
Rihanna and Jennifer Lawrence sat on ornate wooden chairs, and the chairs came back the next day for the re-see.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello staged his show under oversized gold chandeliers, with a black runway and the Eiffel Tower behind it. The first half was gold lamé and golden embroidery; the second turned to inky black and softer, diaphanous shapes. It was widely read as a goodbye, and the show notes did not argue: “A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held.” Among the accessories was a bag shaped like a can.
Chanel
On 5 October Matthieu Blazy marked a year at Chanel by going back to the woman herself. The collection moved through the chapters of Coco Chanel’s life rather than her archive, tweed skirts cut to the knee among them. Natasha Poly and Mariacarla Boscono walked, and so did 22-year-old Rachel Ojuromi. Dua Lipa and Nicole Kidman were on the front row.
Miu Miu
Miuccia Prada starched, stiffened and crumpled soft dresses and sportswear until they held their own shape. The casting was the talk of the week: Olivia Colman made her runway debut at 52, alongside Jamie Bell, Igby Rigney, Louisa Jacobson and Katherine Waterston.
Debuts and the rest of the week
- Courrèges. Drew Henry’s debut, at the Palais de Tokyo, was staged among some 450 mismatched chairs from different eras, arranged by the set designer Arnaud Selve.
- Matières Fécales. “Ninety Nine Percent” was the first show held on Place de la République, with a cast of 99 models that included the designers’ family and friends, in hand-distressed beaded gowns. Rihanna and Rick Owens watched from the front row.
- Chloé. Chemena Kamali sent out slick fisherman coats in cherry red, bright yellow and translucent pink under floppy asymmetric hats.
- Maison Margiela. Glenn Martens’s “Hard and Soft” walked a herringbone parquet floor in front of a wall of dried flowers: clashing florals on trenches, draped gowns, toeless knee-high boots.
- Celine. Michael Rider layered long beaded necklaces over an eclectic wardrobe, and served cappuccino ice lollies before the show.
- Acne Studios. Petticoats, ruffs, doublets and hose, distressed and taken apart, over a melting carpet by the artist Faig Ahmed.
- Junya Watanabe. Ciara walked three times, once under a crystal headpiece like a chandelier.
- Hodakova. Ellen Hodakova Larsson waxed deadstock viscose with beeswax from a Stockholm beekeeper and cut dresses from repurposed fishnets and rope.
- Christian Louboutin. “Eternal Youth,” a burlesque opera at the Théâtre du Châtelet, starred Dita Von Teese.
- August Barron. “Walk of Fame” ran to 43 looks, with Summer Dirx in the cast.
Louis Vuitton closes
Nicolas Ghesquière closed the week, four days after President Macron presented him with the insignia of the Legion of Honour at the Élysée. The collection paired floating silk trousers with streamlined tailoring, in pink, metallics and earth tones.
The faces of the season
The busiest model of the spring 2027 season was Saar Mansvelt Beck, with 35 shows across the four cities, according to The Impression’s count. Agel Akol followed with 33, then Alaina Rae and Athiec Geng with 32 each, and Awar Odhiang, Frauke Nijs, Hejia Li and Malin Rudnick with 30.
Sources
Schedule and figures from the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (fhcm.paris) and W Magazine. Show details from W Magazine, RUSSH and Forbes; model counts from The Impression. Pictures are the posts of the accounts named under each one, shown through Instagram.